Summary: The rise of the second-hand market in leather goods

by Yoann Humbey January 31, 2025

Summary

Introduction: An accessory long shunned by men's fashion
- A gendered perception of the bag
- A revolution in progress
A historically masculine accessory
- The bag in Antiquity and the Middle Ages
- The appearance of pockets and the disappearance of the bag in men
- The rise of the women's bag and the dissociation of genders
A strong comeback thanks to new trends
- The impact of streetwear and new influences
- The rise of men's bags in luxury
- The influence of designers and fashion icons
A change in mentalities and practices
- A practical necessity in the face of new lifestyles
- A generation more open to fluidity in clothing
Which bags for which styles?
- The shoulder bag: a streetwear essential
- The tote bag: a trendy and creative accessory
- The structured leather bag: masculine elegance revisited
- The premium backpack: the compromise between luxury and functionality
- The mini bag: a bold statement inspired by the feminine wardrobe
A booming market
- Strong growth in the men's bag sector
- A craze driven by the Asian market
- The Integration of Men's Bags into Mainstream Fashion
Conclusion: a taboo definitively lifted?
- The bag, an accessory now accepted
- A lasting transformation of men's dress codes

Introduction: a market in full transformation

In recent years, second-hand fashion has been booming, and luxury leather goods are no exception. Once a marginal phenomenon reserved for savvy collectors, buying pre-owned bags has now become a common practice, driven by environmental and economic concerns and a shift in attitudes toward consumption.

Specialized platforms, vintage boutiques, initiatives from major fashion houses... the secondhand handbag market is undergoing a revolution that is shaking up the codes of luxury and redefining purchasing behaviors. We decipher a phenomenon that continues to accelerate.

A market boosted by growing demand

In the past, buying a secondhand bag was seen as an alternative for those who couldn't afford a new model. Today, that perception has radically changed: secondhand is now a conscious choice, adopted by consumers seeking authenticity, rare pieces, and more sustainable fashion.

Affordable luxury: a key argument

One of the driving forces behind this dynamic is the ability to access luxury pieces at a more affordable price. Iconic bags like the Hermès Birkin, the Chanel Timeless, or the Louis Vuitton Speedy remain desirable objects, but their new price can be a barrier. Secondhand bags allow a new clientele to access these models at more competitive prices, while benefiting from exceptional quality and craftsmanship.

A quest for exclusivity and rarity

Leather goods enthusiasts also see secondhand goods as a way to acquire vintage pieces that are hard to find in stores. Some discontinued models or limited editions become real treasures for fashion lovers, who are willing to invest to get their hands on these coveted items.

The rise of resale platforms: a turning point for the market

The development of specialized platforms has significantly contributed to the democratization of the second-hand market. Sites like Vestiaire Collective, The RealReal, Collector Square , and Vinted have revolutionized the buying and selling of pre-owned leather goods by providing consumers with a guarantee of trust and transparency.

Platforms that secure buying and selling

One of the main challenges in the second-hand market is product authentication. With the proliferation of counterfeits, it is crucial for buyers to have guarantees regarding the origin and authenticity of the bags they purchase.

This is where resale platforms have distinguished themselves by offering expert services, enabling them to certify the authenticity of bags before they are put on sale. Vestiaire Collective, for example, has teams of experts who verify each piece before it is sent to the buyer, thus reinforcing confidence in the purchasing process.

An attractive economic model

For sellers, these platforms offer a unique opportunity to give their bags a second life while recouping some of their initial investment. Unlike clothing, which quickly loses value, luxury leather goods are a sector where some models can even increase in value over time, making resale particularly attractive.

The role of major luxury houses in second-hand goods

Faced with this rise in the second-hand market, major leather goods companies have been quick to react. Once cautious about this phenomenon, they are now beginning to integrate it into their business strategy.

Luxury and sustainability: an awareness

In a context where sustainable fashion is becoming a priority, some brands have understood the value of engaging in the second-hand market. Hermès, for example, has for several years offered events where customers can exchange or buy vintage bags certified by the brand itself.

Other players, such as Gucci and Burberry, are also exploring this market by collaborating with specialized platforms to give their creations a second life. These initiatives allow brands to maintain a degree of control over the resale of their products, while meeting the expectations of a customer base increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of their purchases.

The rise of vintage luxury boutiques

At the same time, boutiques specializing in high-end second-hand leather goods are springing up around the world. In Paris, Tokyo, New York, and London, brands like What Goes Around Comes Around and LXR & Co attract a discerning clientele looking for authentic and exclusive bags. These boutiques offer a high-end shopping experience, where each piece is carefully selected and restored if necessary.

More responsible and ethical consumption

The rise of second-hand leather goods is also part of a more global trend towards responsible consumption.

A positive ecological impact

The luxury industry, while synonymous with quality and sustainability, is not immune to criticism regarding its environmental footprint. Leather production and the chemical treatments used for leather goods have a significant environmental impact. By purchasing a pre-owned bag, the consumer participates in a circular approach, reducing the demand for new production and extending the lifespan of existing products.

A change in mentality towards possession

Once a status symbol, purchasing a luxury bag is now more flexible. With the rise of secondhand goods and luxury bag rental solutions like Bag Borrow or Steal or Cocoon Club , the idea of owning a handbag for life is evolving. New generations, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, are increasingly prioritizing access to products over permanent acquisition.

Conclusion: second-hand, a promising future for leather goods

Once perceived as a niche alternative, secondhand leather goods are now establishing themselves as the new norm. Driven by growing demand, the rise of specialized platforms, and the involvement of major luxury brands, this market offers consumers an economical, ecological, and aesthetically pleasing solution.

With constantly evolving attitudes and an ever-growing interest in authenticity and sustainability, it's clear that secondhand will continue to redefine the luxury market. One thing is certain: in the coming years, buying a pre-owned bag will no longer be simply a trend, but a given.